Explore the anti-inflammatory mechanism and applications of Ammonium Glycyrrhizate in cosmeceuticals

1. Overview of Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

In cosmetic R&D, finding a skin-soothing ingredient that combines strong therapeutic potential with long-term safety remains a significant challenge. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate offers a potential solution. It is the ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid, extracted and purified from licorice root.

Compared with crude licorice extract, this ammonium salt offers excellent solubility in water and glycol-based solvent systems, potentially improving its availability for topical application. Today, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate as an anti-inflammatory active ingredient is considered by some dermocosmetic developers as a potential alternative to synthetic anti-inflammatory agents, particularly in formulations designed to soothe irritated skin and support the recovery of damaged epidermal tissue.

2. Advanced biochemical mechanisms of action

The value of this skin-soothing ingredient lies not merely in providing a superficial cooling sensation, but in its potential to influence inflammatory pathways at the cellular level. Two proposed physiological mechanisms are commonly discussed:

• Activity as a “Biological Steroid”: When the skin is damaged, the body produces endogenous cortisol to help regulate inflammation. However, the enzyme 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 2 (11β-HSD2) can convert cortisol into inactive cortisone. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may influence this pathway by inhibiting 11β-HSD2, potentially helping preserve local cortisol activity and contributing to an anti-inflammatory effect.
• Unlike topical corticosteroids, which may cause skin atrophy, thinning, or systemic adverse effects when misused, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate is not itself a corticosteroid. However, its long-term safety and efficacy depend on the formulation, concentration, and available clinical evidence.
• Stabilization of Mast Cells and Reduction of Irritation: When the skin is exposed to intense UV radiation, exfoliating chemicals, or allergens, mast cells may undergo degranulation and release inflammatory mediators, including histamine and other substances involved in redness, swelling, and itching. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may help modulate inflammatory responses, potentially supporting the reduction of skin discomfort and irritation.

3. Chemical characteristics and formulation compatibility

Chemically, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate belongs to the triterpenoid saponin group. Its molecular structure contains both hydrophilic and hydrophobic features, which may influence its behavior in topical formulations and interactions with the skin's stratum corneum.

To develop formulations targeting skin soothing and recovery, formulators may combine Ammonium Glycyrrhizate with complementary ingredients:

• Panthenol (Vitamin B5) and Allantoin: Commonly used to soothe the skin and support its recovery.
• Ceramides NP/AP/EOP and Cholesterol: Lipid components that help support and maintain the skin barrier.
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: Another licorice-derived ingredient that may complement the formulation's skin-soothing properties. Its compatibility and performance depend on the overall formulation and pH.

4. Applications of Ammonium Glycyrrhizate in pharmaceutical and personal care products

With its potential skin-soothing properties, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may be considered for a range of applications, from specialized dermocosmetic products to everyday personal care formulations.

a. Therapeutic dermocosmetics and skin recovery

• In dermocosmetic formulations, this ingredient may help improve skin comfort and support the management of irritation.
• Supporting Skin Tolerance During Intensive Treatments: Formulations containing retinoids or exfoliating acids, such as AHA and BHA, may cause redness, dryness, tightness, and peeling. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may be incorporated to help soothe the skin during these treatments. Its compatibility and effectiveness should be assessed alongside the other active ingredients in the formulation.
• Post-Procedure Skin Care: The ingredient may be considered for biocellulose masks, serums, and moisturizers intended for use after cosmetic procedures such as chemical peels, microneedling, or fractional CO₂ laser treatments. Its potential to support skin comfort may make it relevant to post-procedure skincare formulations, although specific recovery times and clinical benefits require product-specific evidence.

b. Sensitive skin and skin barrier care

• Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may be used in non-steroidal skincare formulations designed for sensitive or irritation-prone skin.
• Formulations for Sensitive and Problem-Prone Skin: In creams and gels designed for skin prone to redness, eczema, or atopic dermatitis, the ingredient may help soothe discomfort. Its role in managing these conditions depends on the formulation and supporting clinical evidence. It should not automatically be considered a treatment for these diseases.
• Daily Skin Barrier Care: At suitable formulation levels, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may be incorporated into toners, gentle facial cleansers, and lightweight moisturizers intended to support skin comfort and help maintain the skin barrier against environmental stressors such as pollution, UV exposure, and temperature changes.

c. Personal care and oral care

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may also be considered for selected personal care applications.

• Oral Care: Licorice-derived compounds are known for their characteristic sweet taste. Depending on the formulation and the manufacturer's intended function, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate may be used as a flavoring agent in toothpaste, mouthwash, or other oral care products. Its specific role should be confirmed through the product's ingredient disclosure.
• Scalp Care: The ingredient may be considered for shampoos and scalp-care formulations designed for itchy or irritation-prone scalps. Its potential role is to support scalp comfort. Claims relating to fungal infections, seborrheic dermatitis, or psoriasis require appropriate evidence for the finished product.

5. Representative commercial products on the market

Reviewing benchmark products can help R&D teams understand how ingredients are used in commercial formulations. The following table lists potential benchmark candidates associated with Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.

Product Category	Example Brands / Benchmark Products	Main Functions and Role of Ammonium Glycyrrhizate in the Formulation	Image
Soothing and Restorative Moisturizers	1. Dr. Brandt Bright Biotic Dark Spot Minimizing Serum  2. SENSAI Cellular Performance Lift Remodelling Cream  3. Avène Mattifying Fluid	May help soothe the skin and reduce signs of irritation. In skincare formulations, the ingredient may help relieve skin discomfort and support products designed for sensitive skin.
Advanced Repair Serums	1. Ariul Green Vitamin C Toning Ampoule  2. Ariul Expert Gold Vitamin C13% Ampoule  3. Dr. Brandt Bright Biotic Dark Spot Minimizing Serum	May help soothe the skin in serum formulations containing skincare actives. It may be combined with moisturizing ingredients to help maintain the skin barrier and alleviate dryness and discomfort.
Skin Care Creams and Gels	1. Aesthetico Gel Couperose  2. Boots Calm Skin Redness-Relief Gel  3. YourGoodSkin Acne Clearing Rapid Rescue Treatment  4. Floslek Antibacterial Intense Gel	May help soothe the skin and care for areas prone to irritation. In gels formulated for oily or blemish-prone skin, its specific role depends on the other ingredients and the manufacturer's product claims.
Specialized Personal Care and Cleansing Products	1. Weleda Ratanhia Toothpaste  2. Weleda Calendula Toothpaste 3. Fitocose Myrrh Toothpaste  4. Huppy Toothpaste Tablets – Peppermint	Depending on the formulation, it may function as a flavoring agent or support oral care. Its specific function in each product should be determined from the manufacturer's ingredient disclosures.